GLOSSARY OF SOAP TERMS

This is by no means a full dictionary of definitions used for all soap and bath products; however we have included not only the natural ingredients used in our products, but also many of the additional ingredients used by other soap manufactures, both hand crafted and commercial. If you find a term not mentioned, please go to our contact page and email us. We’ll research it and email you the definitions we found.

A

Almond Oil - Bitter    An essential oil from the bitter almond tree. typically used as a flavoring with a sort of cherry scent.   

Almond Oil - Sweet   Oil expressed from the nuts of the sweet almond tree. It is an emollient and carrier oil for essential oils.

Aloe Vera   (Aloe barbadensis) A succulent native to the U.S. as well as world wide and know as the “medicine plant” for its ability to heal. Used in a variety of soaps, moisturizers, sun screens lotions and tonics. It is an emollient, demulcent, sunscreen, moisturizer and also a food. It’s been used over the centuries to promote new skin growth and to counter the effects of aging. Chinese medicine uses it to treat headaches. The clear greenish gel squeezed from the fleshy leaves relieves burns when applied directly to the skin and moisturizes the area to help sunburn peel.

Annatto Seed (Bixa Orellana) The seed itself is considered to be antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antiseptic as well as an astringent and emollient. It is used in foods and cosmetics to give an earthy yellow color.

Aromatherapy - The use of fragrance or essences from plants to alter a person's mental or emotional well being.

Arrowroot Powder    (Maranta arundinacea) commonly know as a fine grained starch used in cooking as a thickener. It is the highly digestible fine-grained starch of the rhizomes (like roots, but really stems underground). It is often used in face and body powders because of its very fine grain Astringent - Constricts or tightens the skin, used in facial preparations, also removes oils from the skin.

Avocado Oil    (Persea americana) Oil from the pulp of the fruit of the avocado tree. Well know for its fatty flesh rich in fat, protein, and vitamins A and B, the oil is high in unsaponifiables and is used in soaps, creams, lotions and hair products. Indians used the seeds for dysentery and diarrhea, and the pulp to help hair growth.

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B

Baking Soda    (Sodium Bicarbonate) A white, crystalline powder, soothing, water softening, effervescent, deodorizing, and stimulating, it draws oils and impurities from the skin.  

Beeswax (cera alba) Produced by bees to build honeycombs. It is used to make candles, polishes, inks, cosmetics, and ointments. In cosmetics, it is used as a thickener, emulsifier and stiffening agent in balms, creams, lotions and lipsticks. It is also believed to possess healing qualities.

Black Will Bark Extract (salix Ingra) It contains salicylic acid (a beta hydroxyl acid) from which aspirin was originally synthesized. The beta hydroxyl acid increases cell renewal by increasing the turnover of the stratus corneum layer in the skin. It is a natural non-irritating and gentle botanical extract. With similar properties to aspirin, it also contains anti-inflammatory, analgesic antimicrobial and antioxidant properties.

Bluebonnet (Lupinus havarrdii) Native to Texas, it is the state flower. Farm grown, it is useful for skin irritations.

Borax    (Sodium borate) a white crystalline mineral also known as desert salt. It is a natural preservative, water softener, deodorizer, and mild astringent with a weak antiseptic action. When properly mixed with water it is a soothing bath for hot, tired feet and itchy skin. In cosmetics it can be used along with beeswax to emulsify creams.

Buttermilk    A slightly acid liquid left after churning butter. Not only a food product, but also used in some soaps. An exfoliating mask can be made from buttermilk.

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C

CALCIUM Bentonite Clay    Medium-fine textured clay derived from off-white volcanic ash. The primary source is from Benton, Montana; hence the name Bentonite Clay. When mixed with water, it lends a slippery, almost gel-like feel to soaps and increases lather. Widely used in commercially prepared facial make-up and masks, and as a thickener. In its natural form it can be used to treat pimples, as a tightening facial mask, and to treat poison ivy. Good for all skin types except the most sensitive and great for purifying the skin as it absorbs dirt, oil and toxins from the skin’s surface.

Carrier Oil A vegetable or nut base oil used to dilute essential oils before applying to the skin.

Castor Oil    (Ricinus communis) pale-colored oil extracted from the seeds of the castor beans. When used in soap, the oil acts as a humectant to draw moisture to the skin and hair. It is also a thickener and an emollient giving a rich creamy lather. You might remember Mom giving you a teaspoon to keep you “regular” as it has a mild laxative effect.

Castile A region in Spain known for producing olive oil based soaps in the 13th century. Soap with a large percentage of olive oil is referred to as a Castile soap.

Chaparral (Larrea tridentate) It has antimicrobial, antiseptic, deodorizing and disinfectant properties and is used in soaps for skin and scalp irritations: rashes, dandruff, itchy skin and scalp. It was used by Native Americans to treat wounds because of it disinfectant and antimicrobial properties. Clay (Moroccan Red, French Green, and Kaolin) a sedimentary deposit used in soaps to increase lather. It helps to cleanse and tone by absorbing dirt, oil and toxins from the skin. It also lends a natural coloring to soaps.

Chickweed (Stellaria media) a naturalized herb, high in vitamin C and minerals. It has emollient, demulcent analgesic, soothing, healing properties and is traditionally useful for skin irritations, inflammations, rashes, sores and painful joints.

Cocoa Butter    (Theobroma cacao) a pale yellow fat from dried and naturally fermented cocoa beans which is high in unsaponifiables used as an emollient, skin softener and protectant. It lays down a protective layer that holds moisture to the skin making it good for dry skin, mature skin with wrinkles and helps to soften stretch marks.

Coconut Oil    (Cocus nucifera) Oil obtained from the fruit of the coconut palm and one of the most important tropical crops. Coconut oil is used in the manufacture of soaps, cooking fats, and margarine. It is preferred in soaps because the oil helps produce a hard bar which has a big, fluffy lather. Coconut oil is an emollient and is moisturizing, conditioning and protecting to the skin.

Coffee (Coffea Arabica) Coffee in soap products scavenges free radicals which can cause premature aging and other skin disorders. It has an astringent quality and absorbs orders. We all know to sniff the beans when trying different fragrances to clear the scent from our heads. Coffee also helps as an anti-cellulite ingredient.

Cold Process A method of soap making without utilizing any external heat source.

Colorants    Ingredients that can be used to alter the color of a product - a dye. Colorants are either a dye or a pigment. There are both natural and synthetic dyes and pigments. (see Resources page)

Cornstarch    Derived from dried corn kernels. Absorbs water, soothing to the skin. It is the primary ingredient in commercial baby powders. Cornstarch can cause allergic reactions in people who are sensitive or allergic to corn or corn products.

Cosmeceutical A term used by the cosmetics industry to refer to cosmetic products that have medicinal or drug-like benefits. This term is not recognized by the FDA.

Cruelty Free Not tested on animals. Cucumber (Cucumis sativus) The vegetable cucumber is useful for irritated skin, freckles, windburn and other skin eruptions. Not only is it cooling and soothing, but like a lot of natural plants, it has some healing properties to it also. The scent is light and fresh when used in soap.

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D

D&C A prefix used to designate the approved use of a dye or colorant in drugs and cosmetics, such as D&C Red#7. Detergent A petroleum based surfactant other than soap which was developed during WWII when soap making oils were scarce. Dyes    Any type of colorant that transfers color by dissolving in a solution. There are natural dyes, from plants such as beet root or walnut husk, and synthetic dyes. Colorants with names like "FD&C Red" or with a CI color are dyes that are approved for use in Foods, Drugs and Cosmetics. (see article Is it a Cosmetic, a Drug or both {or is it Soap?}), but it doesn’t mean these are natural. Almost all artificial FD&C and CI colors approved for use by the FDA are made from coal tar oil, or are synthetically produced from petroleum products. Many people’s sensitivities are traced back to dyes.

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E

Earth Pigments Naturally derived cosmetic grade earth pigments made from naturally occurring compounds like iron, sulfur, china clay (a/k/a kaolin clay) and sodium carbonate.

Emollient An additive used to soften or soothe your skin. Cocoa butter or Shea butter is added to handmade soap as an emollient.

Emulsion A stabilized blend of oils and water such as a lotion; the suspension of one liquid within a second liquid which normally do not mix. Emulsions can be broken up by heat or mechanical agitation: butter is formed by de-emulsifying milk.    Enfleurage - The process of extracting the aromatic essences from plants using odorless fats to absorb the oils from flowers. The fat is then dissolved in alcohol to separate the essence from the fat and distilled to remove the alcohol.

Epsom salts (Magnesium Salts) Gets its name from the mineral waters in Epsom, England. A white crystalline powder can be used as a soak for the relief of pain from minor sprains and bruises. Often used in commercial bath salts. Caution: daily use can be drying to the skin.

Essential Oils    Pure plant distillates and extracts derived from the flowers, leaves, stems, berries, rinds, resins, or roots of plants. These oils are the essence of the plant's smell; they make the plant smell the way it does. Essential oils have long been used in folk medicine and aromatherapy for their many healing qualities.   

Exfoliant An abrasive added to slough off dead skin cells, such as oatmeal, seeds, bark or ground spices.

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F

Fatty Acids   A natural organic compound each molecule of which consists of a carboxyl group (oxygen, carbon and hydrogen) attached to a chain of carbon atoms with their associated hydrogen atoms. The number of carbon and hydrogen atoms in the chain is what determines the qualities of that particular fatty acid. Animal and vegetable fats are made up of various combinations of fatty acids (in sets of three) connected to a glycerol molecule, making them triglycerides.

Fragrance Free Contains no added fragrance products. There is no regulated definition for this term, and it is best to consult the ingredients list as some commercial fragrance free or unscented products contain a masking fragrance.

Fragrance Oil   A blend of synthetic ingredients creating a specific fragrance and formulated to mimic natural fragrances.   

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G

Glycerin    Also called glycerol. A triatomic alcohol (glycerol) byproduct derived from vegetable fats created during saponification, the soap-making process, which separates the glycerin from the fatty acids in the whole oil. The naturally-occurring glycerin stays in handmade soaps, but is usually removed from commercial soaps. Glycerin is used in foods, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. It is also used in cryoprotectants, explosives and other industrial products, making it a valuable commodity.

Glyceryl Monostearate    A natural emulsifier prepared from glycerin and stearic acid (which is a fatty acid found in palm oil). It is used in cosmetics to create oil-in-water emulsions.  

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H

Herbs    Any of various often aromatic plants used especially in medicine or as seasoning.

Honey manufactured by nature’s bees. It provides emollience, healing, antimicrobial properties and vital nutrients for the skin.

Horsemint (Monarda punctata and Monarda citriodora) a wildflower that contains an aromatic antiseptic called thymol which is strongly antibacterial and used for wounds, infections and as an insect repellant. The Monarda citriodora contains citronellal, a lemon aromatic used to repel insects.

Humectant    A substance added to another to help it retain moisture.

Hydrosol The condensate water produced during steam distillation of botanical bases when making essential oils. Used in skin care preparations and bath products. Also known as hydrolat or floral water.

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I

Infusion Made by steeping botanicals in oil or water.

Irritant Causes irritation or inflammation of the skin.

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J

Juniper (Juniperus virginiana/Juniperus Mexicana) “The Medicine Tree” as Native Americans called is, is antibacterial, antiviral, antiseptic, astringent, deodorizing, detoxifying and healing. The oil is used for wounds, burns, cellulite, skin conditions, sore muscles and joint pain and as insect repellant. Aromatherapy considers the scent to be calming, soothing and strengthening.

Jojoba Oil    (Simmondsia chinensis) A natural emollient which mimics natural human sin oil secretions and an antioxidant. Technically not an oil, but a wax, it is used to protect against premature aging and wrinkling. It will not turn rancid and is noncomedogenic, a powerful antioxidant and antibacterial, and great for sensitive skin. Edible, nontoxic, generally nonirritating, makes a superb skin conditioner.   

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K

Kaolin clay (also called “China Clay” or "fine white clay") One of the purest clays, comprising a white powdery material arising from the decomposition of feldspar in granite. It is composed mainly of kaolin, the main constituent of which is kaolinite. The texture is very fine and naturally absorbs dirt, oil and toxins from the skin. It is used in face and body powders, liquid powders and makeup. It’s recommended for all skin types, especially sensitive and dry.

Kukui Nut Oil Also known as candle nut oil, it is obtained from the fruit of the tree and used in skin care preparations. Hawaiians have used kukui nut oil for generations to treat dry skin.

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L

Lanolin Wool fat. A fatty substance (wax) obtained from wool and used in soaps and cosmetics as a moisturizer. A natural animal product.

Loofa The dried fibrous section of the fruit from the plant (Luffa aegyptiaca) used as an exfoliating sponge. Also spelled loofah or luffa.

Lye    The common term a caustic alkali used to make soap. The term is fairly general, and can refer to either potassium hydroxide (also known as potash) or to sodium hydroxide (also known as caustic soda). All bar soap is made with it and when done properly, no active lye is left in the final bar.

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M

Melt & Pour Soap M&P is a method of handcrafting soap by melting a ready made soap base, adding fragrances and/or essential oils and shaping using molds.

Mesquite (Prosopis spp.) A tree with pods that are used for cleansing and soothing with antimicrobial and astringent properties.

Milling A process during commercial manufacturing where the soap is blended with fragrance, colorants and other ingredients using mechanical rollers. Hand milled soap is possible and handcrafted.

Mineral Oil    A refined synthetic petroleum based oil. Mineral oil creates a barrier and interferes with the skins normal functions. It is widely used in commercial cosmetics and a poor choice for skin care preparations. Also used medicinally as a laxative.

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N

NaOH Sodium Hydroxide.

Natural Source Obtained or derived from a natural source such as that from a botanical base.

Natural Soap Soap made from natural ingredients, no petroleum, chemical or other artificial ingredients or fragrances.

Neem Oil (Azadirachta indica) Used in Ayurvedic medicine, also known as “Village Pharmacy”. It is used in skin care preparations for its antiseptic, antiviral, antibacterial, antimicrobial, analgesic, antifungal and anti-inflammatory properties. It is useful as an insect repellent, wound treatment, problem skin irritation treatment and fungal skin treatment.

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O

Oatmeal    (Avena sativa) the ground grain from an annual grass. It is used in soaps because of its soothing, moisturizing, demulcent, softening and calming qualities. Products are available for use in baths to help relieve itchy, irritated skin and it acts as a gentle exfoliant and cleanser. Olfactory - Of or pertaining to the sense of smell.

Olive Oil   (Olea europaea) Oil pressed from the fruit of the olive tree through pressing and solvent extraction. Virgin olive oil is one of the finest edible oils and can be consumed without refining or processing. Varying grades of olive oil are available. Olive oil is an excellent moisturizer because it attracts and holds moisture close to the skin, forms a breathable film to prevent loss of internal moisture, and does not interfere with the skins normal functions. It has been used alone as a cleansing agent in place of soap. When used to make soap, the bars produced have a slow, stingy lather, but the soap is mild and cleans well. Traditionally "Castile" soap was made using only olive oil, but the term has loosened now to include soaps that have olive oil as one of the oils in them. It is high in Vitamin E, a powerful antioxidant and oleocanthal, a powerful anti-inflammatory, anti-aging compound and pain killer.

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P

Palm Oil (Elaeis guineensis) Oil from the pulp of the fruit of a palm tree, When used in soaps, palm oil creates a hard, long lasting bar of soap that is mild and cleanses well. Palm oil has similar characteristics to tallow in soaps, and has been used in soap-making since about 1850 when the quantity of available tallow was insufficient to meet the demand for soap. Not to be confused with Palm Kernel Oil that is obtained from the kernels of the oil palm.  

Palm Stearic    Stearic Acid is one of the fatty acids contained in several animal and vegetable oils. It is separated out from the oil and then used by itself as an additive to soaps and other products.

Paraffin    A white or colorless petroleum-derived solid wax. It is often used in making candles and cosmetics. This is the wax commonly found in the grocery store and used to seal canning jars.

Pigments    A substance, usually mineral, that imparts color to something else. Pigments do not dissolve in liquid, but are tiny particles of color that are suspended in it.   

Polysorbate-20    A solubizer derived from corn. An oil or essential oil is first mixed with the solubizer, so it will then mix with water and not separate.   

Potassium Hydroxide    Also called potash, a caustic white solid, originally derived by filtering water through hardwood ashes; potassium hydroxide is used as the caustic alkali in soft and liquid soaps instead of Sodium Hydroxide.

Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia spp) Having many common names like “bunny ears” and “beaver tail”, this cactus has gelatinous pads that Native Americans used as a healing poultice for wounds, ulcers, bruises, bites, arthritis, swelling and pain. It possesses similar healing properties to aloe vera. The fruits of the cactus are high in anti-aging antioxidants, bioflavonoids and vitamin C.

Pumice light and porous lava that is used in solid and powdered form as an abrasive.

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Q

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R

Rendering The process of heating lard or tallow to a liquid state to remove solids or impurities.

Red Sandalwood (Pterocarpus santalinus) Used as an exfoliant and for its analgesic properties, it lends a deep purplish color to soap.

Rosemary Oil Extract Rosemary Oleoresin is an anti-oxidant used as a preservative in personal care products. Its aroma therapeutic properties to rejuvenating the spirits and relieve headaches have been used since the days of Rome.

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S

SAP Value Saponification value. The amount of potassium hydroxide in milligrams required to saponify 1 gram of oil.

Saponification    The reaction of combining a base (fatty acid) with an alkali (lye) to result in a salt (soap) and a free alcohol (glycerin)

Sea Salt    (Sodium Chloride) Salt made by evaporating the water out of sea water either by kiln drying or solar. It contains 84 elements and minerals found naturally in the human body and essential to good health. Relieves muscle tension, soothes and softens the skin and has been used to treat psoriasis, eczema and other skin conditions.

Shea Butter    (Butyrospermum parkii) Extracted from nuts containing a large amount of fat, it is highly emollient with healing properties. High in triglycerides and fatty acids, traditional uses of shea butter include: treating dry skin, blemishes, skin discoloration, burns, sunburn, muscle aches, scars and wrinkles.

Soap Casting The art of creating handcrafted soaps using melt and pour soap base.

Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking soda) a white crystalline powder used for soothing, water softening, effervescence, deodorizing and stimulating. It draws oils and impurities from the skin.

Sodium Hydroxide    (NaOH) a caustic alkali, commonly known as lye, used in making hard soaps. It is now produced by processing salt water but was earlier obtained from the ashes of a particular kind of seaweed.

Sodium Palmate Saponified palm oil, the sodium salt of palm oil.

Sodium Stearate Saponified stearic acid, the sodium salt of stearic acid, obtained from animal and vegetable fats.

Sodium Tallowate

Saponified tallow (animal fat), the sodium salt of tallow.

Steam Distillation A process in which essential oils are extracted from plant materials using steam and pressure. The volatile oils are separated from the hydrosol after condensation.

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) Sunflower oil comes from the seeds and is high in antioxidant vitamin E and essential fatty acids. The herb was traditionally used to heal wounds and in the bath for arthritic pain. It is used as an emollient and leaves a protective moisturizing barrier on the skin.

Superfatted The addition of extra oils or butters that remain unsaponified within the finished soap. These excess oils and butters contribute to the moisturizing properties of the soap.

Surfactant A surface-active agent is a substance that reduces the surface tension of a liquid in which it is dissolved, such as a detergent.

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T

Tallow The suet or fat from animals such as sheep or cows.

Triglycerides   A particular molecular structure found in animal and vegetable oils. It is made up on three fatty acid molecule chains connected to one glycerin molecule.

Tocopherol Any of the four forms (alpha-, beta-, delta- or gamma-) of Vitamin E, an antioxidant added to soaps and lotions as an emollient due to its moisturizing properties. Alpha-tocopherol has greatest amount of vitamin E.

Turbinado Sugar Unrefined raw cane sugar, used in sugar scrubs and body polishes.

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U

Unsaponifiables Components that do not react with sodium hydroxide during saponification and remain in their original state. These components contribute moisturizing or other skin nourishing properties to the finished soap.

Unscented Contains no added fragrance or essential oils. There is no regulated definition for this term, and it is best to consult the ingredients list as some commercial fragrance free or unscented products contain a masking fragrance.

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V

Vitamin E (tocopherol) a natural anti-oxidant that helps to slow the aging process by scavenging free radicals. It reduces UV exposure, prevents scarring, heals, moisturizes and protects.

Volatile Oils - Oils that evaporate or vaporize easily at room temperatures such as essential oils.

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W

Water-In-Oil Emulsion    A particular type of emulsion in which tiny particles of water are suspended in oil.

Wheat Germ Oil    (Triticum vulgari) Oil from the embryo of the wheat grain of the cereal species which has been cultivated for at least 10,000 years. The germ is extracted from the wheat as a source of vitamins and is a known source of pure Vitamin E. Wheat germ oil is emollient, anti-oxidant and rich in natural vitamin E. It also serves as a natural preservative. Vitamin E is known for its healing effects and is proven to help prevent scarring and speed healing.  

Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) The extract of the bark, twigs and leaves from the tree are astringent and a strong antioxidant with anti-inflammatory and healing properties it is used to treat bruises and insect bites. It’s an active ingredient in numerous hemorrhoid medications because it helps to shrink swelling. It has been recommended for psoriasis, eczema and cracked skin

Wildcrafted Refers to herbs and botanicals grown in the wild without the use of pesticides or other chemicals.

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X

Xanathan Gum A derivative of corn sugar used as a thickening agent in cosmetics and foods.

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Y

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) A natural wildflower with many traditional healing properties: used for acne, wounds, dandruff, irritated skin and rashes, burns, scarring and cellulite. It has natural analgesic, anti-inflammatory, astringent, antiseptic, styptic healing properties.

Yucca Root (Yucca spp.) It has a natural lather when mixed into water and is a natural soap substitute. Being high in natural saponins, which are similar to steroids like cortisone, it reduces inflammation of the joints.

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Z

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